Komorebi #77

€220,00

Purple awase hiro eri kimono of the komon type with floral textured pattern background under fuji and kikyo motifs. The flowers show many hand painted details. It has a contrasting coral lining.

 

FIT

Dress Length: 142 cm | 55.9"

Sleeve Length: 32 cm | 12.6"

Shoulder to Shoulder: 61 cm | 24"

 

MATERIAL

Handmande in Japan

Exterior 100% crêpe silk

Lining cotton and synthetic silk

 

HISTORY 

Awase is a lined kimono, exclusively worn between October and May (from Autumn to Spring in Japan). In hiro eri, the collar is wide and its inside is not sewn to the body. When put on, the lapel can be folded in two to feature the widht desired and fall naturally toward the erisaki (the bottom of the collar). It is used in many women’s kimonos.

Komon is an informal kimono whose pattern repeats throughout the piece and often incorporates vertical stripes. Originally used as casual clothing, it is nowadays very rare since, with the westernization of clothing in Japan and the disuse of kimonos as a day-to-day wear, tailors have virtually ceased to produce it.

We can say purple is the most noble color, kodai-murasaki being the most typical. Since ancient times, purple has been the noble color worldwide. In Japan, under the first system to rank officials into 12 levels established by Prince Shotoku in 603, purple was the color which was only allowed to be used by the top rank people. In the Edo period, edo-murasaki color became fashionable among ordinary people (Edo is the ancient name of Tokyo and murasaki means purple. In the era of the 8th Shogun Yoshimune Tokugawa, murasaki-sou (Lithospermum erythrorhizon) were grown and dyeing clothes in purple became popular around the west Edo. This purple color was bluish and called edo-murasaki, contrasting with kyo-murasaki (Kyo means Kyoto) which is reddish. Sukeroku, the main character in one of the famous kabuki performances “Sukeroku yukari no Edo-zakura”, wears a edo-murasaki browband.

Hanakotoba is the Japanese form of the language of flowers. The Japanese have a long tradition of associating meanings to flowers, and they have influenced numerous aspects of their culture from kimono to war. Flowers such as the sakura (cherry blossom) and kiku (chrysanthemum) are national symbols of Japan. Such flowers have the power to invoke powerful emotions and they are engaged in the people's thinking. Beyond these national symbols, others have more subtle meanings. In Japan, they are a traditional gift for both men and women, and are often used to convey what can't be spoken. Even nowadays, flower meanings make occasional appearances in modern popular culture such as manga and anime.

Fuji (wisteria) is a symbol for love and is used in many kamon, the Japanese family crests. As described in the Flowering Trees entry of The Pillow Book of Sei Shonagon, a tenth-century jornal written by a lady-in-waiting to the Empress, “Wisteria blossoms are particularly impressive when they hang long and graceful, with richly colored flowers”. The wisteria at Uji’s Byodo-in temple comes into full bloom exactly in time for the May holiday season. With its flowers of noble purple and white, the wisteria was much prized by people in the Heian period (794-1185) and was often a subject in literary works of the time.

Kikyo is the bellflower, a white five petal flower that takes its name from its bell-shaped nodding head. The plant blooms from late summer into early autumn. There are both wild and domesticated varieties of the bellflower, and when chanced upon in the mountains, a cluster of these is a visual treat. Symbolizes unchanging love, honesty and obedience.

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