Komorebi #76

€260,00

Purple awase hiro eri kimono of the tsukesage type with kiku and kakitsubata flowers. It has hand-painted gold foil details inside the flowers and a maroon gradient that runs through the bottom and the sleeve’s hems.

 

FIT

Dress Length: 157 cm | 61.8"

Sleeve Length: 32 cm | 12.6"

Shoulder to Shoulder: 62 cm | 24.4"

 

MATERIAL 

Handmande in Japan

Exterior 100% silk crêpe

Lining 100% synthetic silk

 

HISTORY

Awase is a lined kimono, exclusively worn between October and May (from Autumn to Spring in Japan). In hiro eri, the collar is wide and its inside is not sewn to the body. When put on, the lapel can be folded in two to feature the widht desired and fall naturally toward the erisaki (the bottom of the collar). It is used in many women’s kimonos.

Tsukesage is used by single or married women at very relaxed events, it is even less formal than the houmongi. This kimono features pattern at the bottom and usually on one sleeve at the back and the other at the front, but the pattern does not continue over or join up at the seams.

We can say purple is the most noble color, kodai-murasaki being the most typical. Since ancient times, purple has been the noble color worldwide. In Japan, under the first system to rank officials into 12 levels established by Prince Shotoku in 603, purple was the color which was only allowed to be used by the top rank people. In the Edo period, edo-murasaki color became fashionable among ordinary people (Edo is the ancient name of Tokyo and murasaki means purple. In the era of the 8th Shogun Yoshimune Tokugawa, murasaki-sou (Lithospermum erythrorhizon) were grown and dyeing clothes in purple became popular around the west Edo. This purple color was bluish and called edo-murasaki, contrasting with kyo-murasaki (Kyo means Kyoto) which is reddish. Sukeroku, the main character in one of the famous kabuki performances “Sukeroku yukari no Edo-zakura”, wears a edo-murasaki browband.

Hanakotoba is the Japanese form of the language of flowers. The Japanese have a long tradition of associating meanings to flowers, and they have influenced numerous aspects of their culture from kimono to war. Flowers such as the sakura (cherry blossom) and kiku (chrysanthemum) are national symbols of Japan. Such flowers have the power to invoke powerful emotions and they are engaged in the people's thinking. Beyond these national symbols, others have more subtle meanings. In Japan, they are a traditional gift for both men and women, and are often used to convey what can't be spoken. Even nowadays, flower meanings make occasional appearances in modern popular culture such as manga and anime.

Kiku (chrysanthemum) represents longevity and rejuvenation. When first introduced in Japan during the Nara Period (ad 710–784), the Japanese royal family was fascinated with the flower. Eventually, during the passing of the years, the chrysanthemum became the imperial family emblem. Even now, it is used as the imperial symbol of Japan and figures on the Japanese passport. No plant is used in such a multitude of patterns as the chrysanthemum. Patterns showing this flower are called kikukamon; designs depicting chrysanthemum attached to stems are known as oriedakiku and flowers standing upright are called tatekikumon. A design in which chrysanthemums are rendered along with flowing water is called kikusui; teamed with a fence, the design is called kikumagaki. There is also much variation in terms of the flowers themselves, from the type whose petals are long and dishevelled, known as rangiku, to the round, extremely abstract kind which appear in works by the artist Kourin Ogata and are called kouringiku. The leaves of the chrysanthemums are on ovoid shape with jagged edges and appear in patterns in the form of rippled lines. The Chrysanthemum Festival, or Choyo or Kikuno-Sekku, is celebrated on the ninth month in the lunar calendar. It is an old Chinese custom that made its way to Japan and was adopted mainly at court. On that day, activities included drinking saké with chrysanthemum petals floating in it and wearing cotton that has been placed on top of the flowers overnight to soak up their dew. Drinking chrysanthemum saké was believed to ward off malevolence and ensure a long life.

Kakitsubata (iris) are beautiful flowers that bloom in Japan around May. The Japanese iris is distinguished by a yellow line at the base of the petals. If the line is white, it is a rabbitear iris, while a mesh pattern indicates a flag iris. The elegant forms of irises have made them popular as kimono designs since olden times. They are often depicted with flowing water on summer kimono and are especially valuable as motifs for expressing the water's edge. They are also often shown with yatsuhashi, bridges that run in a zigzag course. Iris root has a pleasant fragrance and in the Heian era was used by noble families as gifts or to decorate roofs. The flower offers protection from evil spirits.

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