Komorebi #73

€260,00

Purple awase bachi eri kimono of the komon type with buri-buri and temari motifs over ishidatami pattern. This kimono has a clear influence of the Art Deco style.

 

FIT

Dress Length: 138 cm | 54.3"

Sleeve Length: 33 cm | 13"

Shoulder to Shoulder: 61 cm | 24"

 

MATERIAL

Handmande in Japan

Exterior 100% wild silk

Lining 100% cotton

 

HISTORY

Awase is a lined kimono, exclusively worn between October and May (from Autumn to Spring in Japan). In bachi eri, the collar is folded and sewn down to the body, extending naturally towards the erisaki (the bottom of the collar). It is called bachi eri because its shape is like bachi, the stick used to play the samisen (a three-stringed traditional Japanese musical instrument derived from the Chinese instrument sanxian).

Komon is an informal kimono whose pattern repeats throughout the piece and often incorporates vertical stripes. Originally used as casual clothing, it is nowadays very rare since, with the westernization of clothing in Japan and the disuse of kimonos as a day-to-day wear, tailors have virtually ceased to produce it.

We can say purple is the most noble color, kodai-murasaki being the most typical. Since ancient times, purple has been the noble color worldwide. In Japan, under the first system to rank officials into 12 levels established by Prince Shotoku in 603, purple was the color which was only allowed to be used by the top rank people. In the Edo period, edo-murasaki color became fashionable among ordinary people (Edo is the ancient name of Tokyo and murasaki means purple. In the era of the 8th Shogun Yoshimune Tokugawa, murasaki-sou (Lithospermum erythrorhizon) were grown and dyeing clothes in purple became popular around the west Edo. This purple color was bluish and called edo-murasaki, contrasting with kyo-murasaki (Kyo means Kyoto) which is reddish. Sukeroku, the main character in one of the famous kabuki performances “Sukeroku yukari no Edo-zakura”, wears a edo-murasaki browband.

Buri-buri is a popular toy for boys in the Edo period (1615-1868). Similar in sahep to an eight-sided mallet, with tapered ends and a thicker mid-section, it was played by tying a cord to spin it or by attaching wheels and a cord to roll it along the ground. This toy came to be used as a decoration for celebrations, when auspicious motifs such as cranes, trutles ans elderly men and women were painted on its sides. During the New Year, it was used as an indoor decoration to ward off evil.

Temari handballs are a form of folk art taht originated in China. The handballs were initially constructed from old silk remants, wadded to form a ball, then wrapped in strips of fabric. Over time, they became more decorative, with multicolored silk threads wound tightly around a core and intricate embroidery replacing functional stitching. In ancient times, temari were made by palace ladies and maids as playthings, but as the popularity of the balls spread beyond castles to the surrounding towns, they were also made by commoners. Temari are sometimes displayed as ornaments during the Girls' Festival or given to children by their parents on New Year's day. Temari are valued gifts, symbolizing friendship and loyalty.

Ishidatami, also known as Ichimatumoyo, is a checkerboard pattern. Due to its simple design, it was used in many different ways throughout the years. Each new development of the pattern was dictated by the presiding fashion at the time, usually featuring that era's popular color. 

The arts and crafts movement known as Art Deco first appeared in France just before WWI and became especially popular in the 1920s to 1930s. It drew on many sources and affected all forms of design, including the patterns on Japanese kimono. This modern trend fits neatly into the fifteen years of the Taisho era (1912-26) which was sandwiched between the end of the Meiji and start of the Showa periods. Typified by geometric patterns formed by simple lines and shapes, Art Deco designs were easy to incorporate and the extremely stylized flowers became favored for their freshness as designs on kimono. Apart from kimono and obi, Art Deco-style removable collars (haneri) and hair decorations were also produced. Hair arrangements at this time were beginning to transition towards Western styles, and the combs, hairpins and tortoiseshell bars that had been used in Japanese arrangements began to be replaced by Art Deco hair ornaments. The kimono was still the predominant choice of dress, but through hairstyles, hair decorations and accessories, the Art Deco movement entered the lives of general population.

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