Komorebi #72

€200,00

Plum awase hiro eri kimono of the komon type with small komon flower details and green lining. The sleeves are long, characteristic of kimono from pre WWll.

 

FIT

Dress Length: 142 cm | 55.9"

Sleeve Length: 33 cm | 13"

Shoulder to Shoulder: 61 cm | 24"

 

MATERIAL

Handmande in Japan

Exterior 100% silk crêpe

Lining cotton and silk crêpe

 

HISTORY 

Awase is a lined kimono, exclusively worn between October and May (from Autumn to Spring in Japan). In hiro eri, the collar is wide and its inside is not sewn to the body. When put on, the lapel can be folded in two to feature the widht desired and fall naturally toward the erisaki (the bottom of the collar). It is used in many women’s kimonos.

Komon is an informal kimono whose pattern repeats throughout the piece and often incorporates vertical stripes. Originally used as casual clothing, it is nowadays very rare since, with the westernization of clothing in Japan and the disuse of kimonos as a day-to-day wear, tailors have virtually ceased to produce it.

We can say purple is the most noble color, kodai-murasaki being the most typical. Since ancient times, purple has been the noble color worldwide. In Japan, under the first system to rank officials into 12 levels established by Prince Shotoku in 603, purple was the color which was only allowed to be used by the top rank people. In the Edo period, edo-murasaki color became fashionable among ordinary people (Edo is the ancient name of Tokyo and murasaki means purple. In the era of the 8th Shogun Yoshimune Tokugawa, murasaki-sou (Lithospermum erythrorhizon) were grown and dyeing clothes in purple became popular around the west Edo. This purple color was bluish and called edo-murasaki, contrasting with kyo-murasaki (Kyo means Kyoto) which is reddish. Sukeroku, the main character in one of the famous kabuki performances “Sukeroku yukari no Edo-zakura”, wears a edo-murasaki browband.

Komon means "fine pattern" and is also a name for patterns made up of tiny details, appearing like a solid color from afar like this one. Edo komon is said to be originated from fine patterns put on the warriors formal dress called kamishimo in the Edo period .The fine patterns were first used in kamishimo in the Muromachi period and were widely used and developed as patterns during 1624-1644 in the Edo period. It is called komon gata or kamishimo komon and each feudal lord monopolized his own pattern denoting his feudal government. In the middle of the Edo period, however, the patterns were loved and widely used by common people and became finer and more diverse.

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