Komorebi #57

€190,00

Silver and black awase bachi eri kimono of the komon type with kakitsubata flowers over flowing water. It has a bright red lining in the sleeves and has been adapted to midi coat.

 

FIT

Dress Length: 142 cm | 55.9"

Sleeve Length: 32 cm | 12.6"

Shoulder to Shoulder: 60 cm | 23.6"

 

MATERIAL

Handmande in Japan

Exterior 100% synthetic silk

Lining cotton and synthetic silk

 

HISTORY

Awase is a lined kimono, exclusively worn between October and May (from Autumn to Spring in Japan). In bachi eri, the collar is folded and sewn down to the body, extending naturally towards the erisaki (the bottom of the collar). It is called bachi eri because its shape is like bachi, the stick used to play the samisen (a three-stringed traditional Japanese musical instrument derived from the Chinese instrument sanxian).

Komon is an informal kimono whose pattern repeats throughout the piece and often incorporates vertical stripes. Originally used as casual clothing, it is nowadays very rare since, with the westernization of clothing in Japan and the disuse of kimonos as a day-to-day wear, tailors have virtually ceased to produce it.

Hanakotoba is the Japanese form of the language of flowers. The Japanese have a long tradition of associating meanings to flowers, and they have influenced numerous aspects of their culture from kimono to war. Flowers such as the sakura (cherry blossom) and kiku (chrysanthemum) are national symbols of Japan. Such flowers have the power to invoke powerful emotions and they are engaged in the people's thinking. Beyond these national symbols, others have more subtle meanings. In Japan, they are a traditional gift for both men and women, and are often used to convey what can't be spoken. Even nowadays, flower meanings make occasional appearances in modern popular culture such as manga and anime.

Kakitsubata (iris) are beautiful flowers that bloom in Japan around May. The Japanese iris is distinguished by a yellow line at the base of the petals. If the line is white, it is a rabbitear iris, while a mesh pattern indicates a flag iris. The elegant forms of irises have made them popular as kimono designs since olden times. They are often depicted with flowing water on summer kimono and are especially valuable as motifs for expressing the water's edge. They are also often shown with yatsuhashi, bridges that run in a zigzag course. Iris root has a pleasant fragrance and in the Heian era was used by noble families as gifts or to decorate roofs. The flower offers protection from evil spirits.

 

Water is first among the images that evoke coolness and is expressed through many different motifs. There are many types of design, including the S-shaped curves of the ryusui-mizu flowing water crest and the whorls of the kanze-mizu design. The fact that water lends itself to repeating patterns may explain why it features so heavily in stencil designs woven fabrics, among other textiles. Combined with the colored leaves of fall, flowing water forms a pattern known as tatsutagawa river.

 

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