Komorebi #31

€250,00

Golden awase hiro eri kimono of the tsukesage type showing hand painted details of momji and hand embroidered flowers such as hagi and sakura over a tanakikigumo motif.

 

FIT

Dress Length: 155 cm | 61"

Sleeve Length: 34 cm | 13.4"

Shoulder to Shoulder: 64 cm | 25.2"

 

MATERIAL

Handmande in Japan

Exterior 100% wild silk

Lining 100% taffeta

 

HISTORY

Awase is a lined kimono, exclusively worn between October and May (from Autumn to Spring in Japan). In hiro eri, the collar is wide and its inside is not sewn to the body. When put on, the lapel can be folded in two to feature the widht desired and fall naturally toward the erisaki (the bottom of the collar). It is used in many women’s kimonos.

Tsukesage is used by single or married women at very relaxed events. This kimono features pattern at the bottom and usually on one sleeve at the back and the other at the front, but the pattern does not continue over or join up at the seams.

Japan’s textile patterns are among the most beautiful in the world – they have endless appeal and are noted for their spititual and symbolic aspects. Each pattern, which has been passed down over many years, is deeply meaningful. The beautiful history of your komorebi is also told by the numerous details you can find in its designs.

Hanakotoba is the Japanese form of the language of flowers. The Japanese have a long tradition of associating meanings to flowers, and they have influenced numerous aspects of their culture from kimono to war. Flowers such as the sakura (cherry blossom) and kiku (chrysanthemum) are national symbols of Japan. Such flowers have the power to invoke powerful emotions and they are engaged in the people's thinking. Beyond these national symbols, others have more subtle meanings. In Japan, they are a traditional gift for both men and women, and are often used to convey what can't be spoken. Even nowadays, flower meanings make occasional appearances in modern popular culture such as manga and anime.

Kaede was the original name for the Japanese maple tree and momiji was traditionally used to refer to all autumn foliage, not just maple leaves. Eventually, due to the popularity of the maple leaf as the iconic autumn leaf, momiji came to refer to only maple trees. Momiji-gari (autumn leaf viewing) is a popular activity for many people and a popular kimono motif. The interesting shape of the maple leaf makes it equally popular as a single motif and grouped on branches. It is particularly charming when depicted small, making it an ideal subject for embroidery on kimono. As with hydrangeas, it is a shame to wait until the maple’s leaves are turning red to wear kimono patterned with it and happily this motif also features on many summer garments and accessories. Wearing patterns of reddening maple leaves that suggest the impending cool fall season gives others a sense of coolness – a peculiarly Japanese act of consideration. Maple leaves are also used in combination with sakura (cherry blossom) on kimono, an arrangement which is called unkin or “clouds and brocade”. The sakura are clouds and the maple leaves the brocade. Conveniently, kimono sporting this pattern can be worn at any time of the year.

Hagi (bush clover) is one of the Aki No Nanakusa (Seven Flowers of Autumn). It’s not known who originally grouped these plants together as a representation of autumn, but their presence in even the oldest of Japanese poetry speaks to their timelessness as an autumn motif. They are: hagi (bush clover), susuki (pampas grass), kuzu (arrowroot), nadeshiko (dianthus, pink or wild carnation), ominaeshi (valerian or maiden flower), fujibakama (mistflower) and kikyo (Chinese bellflower). Occasionally, asagao (morning glory) substitutes kikyo. Historically, hagi seeds were ground and mixed with rice while the leaves were used as a tea substitute, although both these practices have fallen out of favour now.

Although sakura (cherry blossom) has long been a much-loved motif in Japan, patterns featuring the flower were not popular until more recent times mainly because the cherry blossom season is so short and thus the wearing of kimono bearing the cherry blossom motif was also short. As a flamboyant decoration on costumes for traditional Japanese dance and kabuki teather, however, there is no design more effective, but these costumes are worn for a specific purpose. The general public have generally preferred extremely small sakura patterns, such as little stenciled motifs. When surveying the comparatively small number of sakura designs, one can see some that feature only single blossoms, while in others branches are laden with blossoms, as in the case of a weeping cherry tree. Sakura may be used in combination with other motifs, such as flowing water as in the sakuragawa (cherry blossom river) design, and atop a raft in the hana-ikada (froral raft) design. Designs capturing a distant view of sakura were common. The scenery of a sakura covered Mt. Yoshino shrouded in mist was incorporated into patterns used on semi-formal attire and other garments. A symbol of Spring, it is now commonly used throughout the year. Cherry blossoms are a symbol of Japan and of beginnings, as they bloom at the start of the school year.

Kumo means cloud. In ancient times, the Chinese people performed augury by observing the figure or color of clouds which climbed toward the sky from mountains. This custom passed on to Japan and the motif of cloud began to be used widely. In after ages, the figure of the motif extended more transversally generating three distinct cloudy patterns: onigumo (“oni” originally means “ogre”, which often turns into the meaning of “fierce”); tanabikigumo (“tanabiki” means “trail”); and yokogumo (“yoko” means “horizontal”).

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