Blue awase hiro eri kimono of the houmongi type with gold thread hand embroidery and golden hand painted details. Over its subtle hishi texture, many flowers are portrayed such as kiku, tsubaki and kiri, complemented with the geometric Budhist influenced motif sayagata and pink kanoko details. The sleeves are long, characteristic of kimono from pre WWll. It also has a pale pink gradient that runs through the bottom and sleeves’ hems.
Dress Length: 155 cm | 61"
Sleeve Length: 33 cm | 13"
Shoulder to Shoulder: 65 cm | 25.6"
Handmande in Japan
Exterior 100% silk crêpe
Lining taffeta and silk crêpe
Awase is a lined kimono, exclusively worn between October and May (from Autumn to Spring in Japan). In hiro eri, the collar is wide and its inside is not sewn to the body. When put on, the lapel can be folded in two to feature the widht desired and fall naturally toward the erisaki (the bottom of the collar). It is used in many women’s kimonos.
Houmongi means “visiting dress” and, in Japanese tradition, could be used both by unmarried or married women at more relaxed moments. It is a semi formal kimono (less formal than tomesode but more formal than tsukesage or komon), whose pattern flows around the hem and the sleeve and sometimes up over the body of the kimono, joining up at the seams.
Hishi is a geometric pattern based on rhombus. It is believed that this shape was created spontaneously in prehistoric Japan, and several variations were developed in the Heian era as a pattern for Japanese textiles. There are many variations, however the most interesting are yotsuwaribishi or waribishi (quartered diamond), the pattern with flowers instead of diamond shapes, called hanabishi mon'you, very common between Heian and Kamakura Period; and saiwaibishi, the combination of geometrical and floral pattern.
Hanakotoba is the Japanese form of the language of flowers. The Japanese have a long tradition of associating meanings to flowers, and they have influenced numerous aspects of their culture from kimono to war. Flowers such as the sakura (cherry blossom) and kiku (chrysanthemum) are national symbols of Japan. Such flowers have the power to invoke powerful emotions and they are engaged in the people's thinking. Beyond these national symbols, others have more subtle meanings. In Japan, they are a traditional gift for both men and women, and are often used to convey what can't be spoken. Even nowadays, flower meanings make occasional appearances in modern popular culture such as manga and anime.
Kiku (chrysanthemum) represents longevity and rejuvenation. When first introduced in Japan during the Nara Period (ad 710–784), the Japanese royal family was fascinated with the flower. Eventually, during the passing of the years, the chrysanthemum became the imperial family emblem. Even now, it is used as the imperial symbol of Japan and figures on the Japanese passport. No plant is used in such a multitude of patterns as the chrysanthemum. Patterns showing this flower are called kikukamon; designs depicting chrysanthemum attached to stems are known as oriedakiku and flowers standing upright are called tatekikumon. A design in which chrysanthemums are rendered along with flowing water is called kikusui; teamed with a fence, the design is called kikumagaki. There is also much variation in terms of the flowers themselves, from the type whose petals are long and dishevelled, known as rangiku, to the round, extremely abstract kind which appear in works by the artist Kourin Ogata and are called kouringiku. The leaves of the chrysanthemums are on ovoid shape with jagged edges and appear in patterns in the form of rippled lines. The Chrysanthemum Festival, or Choyo or Kikuno-Sekku, is celebrated on the ninth month in the lunar calendar. It is an old Chinese custom that made its way to Japan and was adopted mainly at court. On that day, activities included drinking saké with chrysanthemum petals floating in it and wearing cotton that has been placed on top of the flowers overnight to soak up their dew. Drinking chrysanthemum saké was believed to ward off malevolence and ensure a long life.
Tsubaki (camellia flower) is one of the most popular Japanese patterns and has different meanings depending on the color: red flowers symbolize love and white ones show longing. The character for camellia originated in Japan and consists of a combination of the characters for "spring" and "tree", revealing the deep Japanese attachment to the camellia whose flowers most evoke the feeling of spring. In ancient times, it was thought to be a sacred tree with mystical powers. The eight-century Nihon Shoki or Nihongi, the second oldest book of classical Japanses history after the Kokiji records the story of how Emperor Keiko used a stick made from camellia wood to conquer local tribes. From the Kamakura period (1185-1333), the camellia finally gained appreciation as a flowering tree, while in the following Muromachi and Momoyama periods it came to be used as a subject in works of art and craft. However, it was during the Edo period (1615-1868) that the camellia reached its peak. Hidegata, the second shogun of the Tokugawa dynasty, planted a flower garden in the Fukiage palace and was presented with camellias by various provincial personages, sparking a craze for camellias which led to townspeople planting them in their own gardens. During the Edo perido, various inventories, including Hyakuchinzu (One Hundred Camellias) by Kano Sanraku, were produced and advances were made in their cultivation and hybridization. Splendid when used as a pattern on kimono or obi, camellias lend a feeling of warmth when used on haori jackets, giving the impression that spring has arrived on the exact spot they are decorating.
Kiri (paulownia) is known as the "princess tree". Traditionally, the trees would be planted when a girl was born and cut down to be sold and made into gifts when she was the age to marry. It is closely associated with the Ho-ou phoenix, which was said to nest in the tree and watch over the family. Kiri is also a current symbol for the government in Japan.
Sayagata is the pattern of interlocking manji, an ancient Buddhist symbol that has been used across many cultures for thousands of years. The symbol came to Japan in the 16th century and is known to represent life and strength.
The kanoko pattern is especially popular as a shibori motif, although it is possible for it to appear in other formats as well. Its name comes from the resemblance to the spots on the back of a baby deer.