Komorebi #9

€220,00

Black awase bashi eri kimono of the komon type with a red and white tsubaki and igeta motifs. It has a black removable synthetic fur collar.

 

FIT

Dress Length: 151 cm | 57.9"

Sleeve Length: 34 cm | 13.4"

Shoulder to Shoulder: 67 cm | 26.4"

 

MATERIAL

Handmande in Japan

Exterior 100% cotton

Lining 100% cotton

 

HISTORY

Awase is a lined kimono, exclusively worn between October and May (from Autumn to Spring in Japan). In bachi eri, the collar is folded and sewn down to the body, extending naturally towards the erisaki (the bottom of the collar). It is called bachi eri because its shape is like bachi, the stick used to play the samisen (a three-stringed traditional Japanese musical instrument derived from the Chinese instrument sanxian).

Komon is an informal kimono whose pattern repeats throughout the piece and often incorporates vertical stripes. Originally used as casual clothing, it is nowadays very rare since, with the westernization of clothing in Japan and the disuse of kimonos as a day-to-day wear, tailors have virtually ceased to produce it.

Hanakotoba is the Japanese form of the language of flowers. The Japanese have a long tradition of associating meanings to flowers, and they have influenced numerous aspects of their culture from kimono to war. Flowers such as the sakura (cherry blossom) and kiku (chrysanthemum) are national symbols of Japan. Such flowers have the power to invoke powerful emotions and they are engaged in the people's thinking. Beyond these national symbols, others have more subtle meanings. In Japan, they are a traditional gift for both men and women, and are often used to convey what can't be spoken. Even nowadays, flower meanings make occasional appearances in modern popular culture such as manga and anime.

Tsubaki (camellia flower) is one of the most popular Japanese patterns and has different meanings depending on the color: red flowers symbolize love and white ones show longing. The character for camellia originated in Japan and consists of a combination of the characters for "spring" and "tree", revealing the deep Japanese attachment to the camellia whose flowers most evoke the feeling of spring. In ancient times, it was thought to be a sacred tree with mystical powers. The eight-century Nihon Shoki or Nihongi, the second oldest book of classical Japanese history after the Kokiji records the story of how Emperor Keiko used a stick made from camellia wood to conquer local tribes. From the Kamakura period (1185-1333), the camellia finally gained appreciation as a flowering tree, while in the following Muromachi and Momoyama periods it came to be used as a subject in works of art and craft. However, it was during the Edo period (1615-1868) that the camellia reached its peak. Hidegata, the second shogun of the Tokugawa dynasty, planted a flower garden in the Fukiage palace and was presented with camellias by various provincial personages, sparking a craze for camellias which led to townspeople planting them in their own gardens. During the Edo perido, various inventories, including Hyakuchinzu (One Hundred Camellias) by Kano Sanraku, were produced and advances were made in their cultivation and hybridization. Splendid when used as a pattern on kimono or obi, camellias lend a feeling of warmth when used on haori jackets, giving the impression that spring has arrived on the exact spot they are decorating.

The kanji character igeta looks exactly like the criss-crossed timbres known as well-curbs which were once seen all over Japan as a grille protecting the unwary from tumbling into an open well head. It has been a popular fabric motif for centuries, especially as a fashionable minimalist pattern on woven kasuri ikat cottons and for children’s yukata cotton kimono. Since a well is a source of water, it symbolizes life and good fortune.

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